San Gregorio Armeno and the Nativity Scene tradition

This narrow picturesque alley, in the heart of Naples and overlooked by the sumptuous bell tower of St. Gregory's Church, is perhaps one of the busiest in the city. It is not only the presence of townspeople and tourists that populate this place, but also those of tiny hand-painted human figures (handcrafted pastori, or nativity-scene figurines), a manifestation of the craftsmanship of master nativity scene makers.

The tradition of pastori lies a long way back in history, far predating the birth of the 18th-century Neapolitan nativity scene. In classical times, in fact, a temple dedicated to Ceres stood on the street where citizens used to bring small terracotta statues as votive offerings.

This tradition has transcended the centuries and comes down to us, poised between the sacred and the profane, thanks to the work of generations of families who - in addition to depicting key figures of the nativity, pastori and shopkeepers - have long since begun to immortalize contemporary icons. Many of you will probably go home with an ox, a donkey, a "bambiniello" (that’s how we Neapolitan call an infant Jesus figure) and, why not, a statuette of Maradona or Pino Daniele.

San Gregorio Armeno is 10 minutes only from Attico 33.